Salt Smoke Time by Will Horowitz

Author:Will Horowitz
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: HarperCollins
Published: 2019-01-27T16:00:00+00:00

Most people know the general signs to look for when buying fish: clear eyes, firm to the touch, and a fresh “nonfishy” odor. Skate, rays, dogfish, and shark must always be consumed within a day or two of catching if being prepared fresh, as they excrete uric acid through their skin, making them ammoniated and off-putting. If preserved within that short window, however, cured skate can be intensely flavorful and delicious after many months of aging unrefrigerated.

Shellfish should also be eaten very fresh. We look for oysters and clams with strong shells and firm flesh, an indication that they’ve lived in good, clean, fast-moving waters, which forces them to develop stronger, more flavorful muscles. In my family, there is no bigger pleasure than simply sitting by the water, slurping down fresh oysters and steamer clams by the bucketful with a glass of chilled prosecco or ice-cold beer. Even when my grandfather was well into his nineties and wheelchair-bound, he had us bring him fresh shellfish with every visit. There was little else that would light up his face more than being at home with all of us eating littleneck clams on the half shell. I’m happy to include in this chapter the recipes for seafood feasts that my family has enjoyed for generations.

Something to appreciate as you consider these recipes: Each one will result in a product that can be stored for months. Be sure to attend carefully to the details. For example, when hanging fish to dry, do your best to make sure the temperature is controlled; fish heads can fall off if it gets too warm and you can lose your product altogether. Opening up a smoker to a hundred headless eels lying in soot on the bottom of the oven is not a good feeling. Rig the fish up and process thoughtfully for the best (and safest) results.

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